Have you ever seen an oufit that was so outrageous that you said to yourself, "Where did she get that, it is so hot"? According to designer Mary Kae Ash, "While clothes may not make the woman, they certainly have a strong effect on her self confidence- which I believe, does make the woman". Specifically, Kae is referring to the cycle of hip, which in our society is defined by how you look. So, in order to be hip, you must look hip. This not only has to do with the appearance of your clothes, but the labels that you have on your back. As hip is always changing, it is a constant battle to wear the hottest, newest fashions first.

Fashion is not only for the trendsetters and people who love fashion, but every person that dresses themselves chooses their clothing for a reason. Choice of clothing says a lot about a person and the influences of our society and time period. As periods change, fashion and hip are constantly changing. New clothing lines and styles are produced, while old ones are pushed to the sale rack. The media and designers are also continuously vying for attention to bombard the mainstream with their styles and fashions. Thus, the cycle of what is hip is defined by our society and the role the media plays in it at that time period.

First, Some Background: A Little Fashion History

Throughout the different time periods, fashion has gone through much change and development. In the Edwardian Era, from 1901-1910, the wealthy women wore elaborate laced dresses with high necklines daily and tailored and tailor made suits.

In the early 1920’s, fashion changed with World War I. Dresses took on a whole new dimension. In order to preserve materials during the war period, the corseted waist was replaced with a hobble, narrow skirt. In 1925, "shift" type dresses with no waistline emerged.

Which lead up to the 1930’s, where prohibition, the proliferation of jazz, and the development of mass media controlled the era. Women were gaining more independence and placing more attention on glamour. The emergence of three major women’s fashion magazines also hit the scene, Vogue, The Queen, and Harper's Bazaar. A softer, more feminine style replaced the boyish, flapper look of the twenties.

The true hallmarks of fashion in the early 1940's included an austere silhouette with narrow hips, padded shoulders, and all manner of hats. The working-class look of icons such as Rosie the Riveter became chic, as women of all social standings joined the war effort. American designers introduced the concept of separates and co-ordinating components in order to create the illusion of more outfits than one actually had. Classic sportswear styles took hold on college campuses and were soon adopted by all levels of society and all age groups.

The focus was on the baby-booming family in the 1950’s and being a good housewife which was the ultimate measure of success. To look the part of the perfect housewife, women donned full skirts which were hemmed mid-calf placed with simple blouses.

The 1960’s was the decade of the mini-skirt. Widely acknowledged as the brainchild of designer Mary Quant, within a year anybody who had the body to pull it off was wearing a mini, many of whose hemlines were 4-5 inches above the knee in New York and 7-8 inches above the knee in London.

The 1970's were literally the "anything goes" decade. For some, the uglier and clunkier the fashion, the better. For others, soft and feminine was the answer. No matter what you "dug" though, making a fashion statement reached its apex in the 1970s.

The '80s was the decade of excess. Everything was bigger, and everyone wanted more more more! More was better....wasn't it? Shoulder pads were de riguer for both men and women, the more accessories the better. Bright colors, denim and outrageous hairstyles ruled the fashion scene at this time period, which lead into the 1990’s.

Works Cited

20th Century Fashion. 2003. The Costume Gallery. 15 April 2007 <www.costumegallery.com>.

About: Women's Fashion. 2007. New York Times Company. 12 April 2007 <http://fashion.about.com/od/historycostumes/Fashion_History.htm>.

Fashion-Era. Ed. Pauline Weston and Guy Thomas. 2007. 12 April 2007 <http://www.fashion-era.com/>.

Fashion Past and Present. Ed. Tracey O. 2007. Teacher Oz's Kingdom of History. 15 April 2007 < http://www.teacheroz.com/fashionhistory.htm>.

Now onto Hip: Creating a Name in Fashion History for The New Millenium

As styles changed from extravagant bodices to narrow skirts, mini skirts to bell bottoms and shoulder pads to tight jeans, fashion consequently changes with major events of the time.
As with any innovation, fashion is a reflection of the ground breaking creative minds of the time period. Those who are credited with creating fashion styles and new trends are denoted fashion designers. This page is dedicated to the history of fashion for the new millennium, adding to the previous histories and what the designers of our time are creating. It will focus on three prominent fashion designers, Gianni Versace, Dolce and Gabanna and Christian Dior.

What is hip anyway? As hip is defined by John Leland, author of "Hip the History", he states, "Hip is an ethos of individualism, but tends to grow in cliques. It has an epidemiology. In its larval, pre-hip stage, it is a creed without followers, out of rhythm with whatever is hip at the time…In relative isolation, a small group of individuals, forsaking the general trends around them, give each other permission to do something new. They develop their own slang as part of their group identity and encourage each other’s idiosyncrasies as badges of membership. As the inventions become more flamboyant or cohere as a style, a second, slightly broader circle begins to adopt some of the gestures- and in turn to transmit it to a circle slightly broader than itself (69). " Leland describes hip as individualistic, original, unique, and breaking the boundaries in a certain sphere. As hip emerges it is without followers, paving the way for trends to come. So, according to Lelands definition, in order to be hip in fashion it is all about originality. Once the circle of followers grows larger, it loses its hipness.

The Runway: Often Imitated But, Never Replicated

Dolce and Gabbana

Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana collaborated in 1985 and soon made a name for themselves, being credited as making “stars look like stars”. Originally inspired by eclectic thrift shop Bohemia, Dolce & Gabbana's vibrant, animal prints have been described as "haute hippydom" taking inspiration in particular from Italy's prestigious film history. Dolce and Gabbana claim to be more concerned about creating the best, most flattering clothes than sparking trends. However, with their innovative way, Dolce and Gabbana has done nothing but spark trends. Their trademarks include “underwear-as-outerwear, such as bra straps and corsets, gangster boss pinstripe suits, extravagantly printed and embroidered coats, and black. Meanwhile their fetish-meets-femininity collections are always backed by powerful ad campaigns, like the black-and-white La Sicilia, featuring model Marpessa photographed by Ferdinando Scianna in 1987. But fundamentally they are known for making women look, "quite simply, devastatingly sexy”. Their styles are cutting edge and sexy, setting the stage for the fashions to follow.


The Spring 2007 Fashion Show featured their most recent collection, which consisted of many animal prints, specifically cheetah, clear plastic dresses and tuxedo looks. The styles are very sexy and daring, pushing the limits of fashion today.

Versace

In 1978, Gianni Versace with the help of his brother launched the Gianni Versace collection and later that year it debuted. Versace’s bold, distinctive styles pushed the boundaries of the fashion industry as he made a name for himself. He always used very distinctive cuts, vibrant colors with unconventional materials, culminating high art with the contemporary culture. The 2006/2007 Spring Fashion Show featured many white, clean cut styles, brown, navy and white, 60’s inspired patterns, and metallic pieces. The Versace look continued its clean yet sexy looks in photographs used for advertisements.




Most of the styles exemplified the ones seen on the runway, however depicted a very independent woman wearing the style in a business manner. Of the dressier styles, vibrant and metallic colors were used to make the dresses stand out.


Dior

Founded in 1947 with his very first collection, Christian Dior established "New Look." This collection featured rounded shoulders, a cinched waist, and very full skirt, with the objective of ultra-femininity and opulence in women's fashion. After years of military and civilian uniforms, sartorial restrictions and shortages, Dior offered not merely a new look but a new outlook, for which his rebellion and expertise became widely known. Since then Dior’s collection has offered clothing that caters to women’s bodies and is a perfect representation of femininity. Similar to the Versace line, the Dior Ready-to Wear Spring line, features metallics, however the styles are very different. Dior’s styles provide a funky, flirty fashion with bright colors, such as fuchsia, purple and green.




Along with the spring accent, white is used in many of the pieces, but the styles are targeted towards a younger crowd than Versace’s it seems. Dior also has six collections, Lady Dior, Dior Jeanne, Dior Cannage, Dior Gaucho, My Dior, and Crystal Watch, which allows much variation within the designer.

After viewing the styles of three prominent designers which are paving the way for fashion today, it is easy to see how different each designer is and how they are influencing our decade. It is important to realize the differences of these styles compared to the previous periods and see how styles are constantly changing and advancing as technology increases and people are forced to continuously break boundaries. These Spring/Summer 2007 Runway fashion styles will be the styles that influence our summer wear this summer and it is my job as a hip scout to follow their progression to the red carpet and finally, to the mainstream audience.

The Red Carpet: The First Step to Mainstream Access

What are you wearing tonight?: This is the number one question that all reporters on the red carpet ask upon a celebrity's arrival. Nothing is more important than the label on a celebrity's back. But, why?

Dolce and Gabanna, Versace and Dior all have one thing in common. Their clothing lines are hip on the runway because of their orginality, daring styles and inaccessibility in every way. Designer fashions are hip because they are unattainable. Their styles are too outrageous for daily wear, yet they are admired and desired. Their costs are too high for the average person to afford, forcing the old saying of "you always want what you can't have" to become very true in this case. People desire designer clothes because of the notion of wealth attached to the label.

Designers promote their styles to the general public using their celebrity ties. They shower celebrities with free clothing in the hopes that they will advertise their styles to the public and continue the cycle of fashion. Once fans and mainstream audiences see a famous celebrity wearing the new dress by Versace or the sleek Dior clutch, the hipness factor of designer labels is intensified and the desire levels are increased. People want what the celebrities have, this is how the media influences what the consumerism of the public.

Dolce and Gabanna, Versace and Dior all have celebrity pages on their websites to show their appreciation and pride for the high-status names wearing their clothes.

Once cheetah print hit the Dolce and Gabbana runway it became the new fad again. Magazines everywhere showed just about everything you could possibly imagine available in cheetah. The same thing happened with metallics and feminine, crisp white styles, which dominated the runways of Versace and Dior. These styles have paved the way for the styles that are popular.

But, it isn't until celebrities wear these styles that they become popular. Their popularity brings attention to the styles. Jessica Alba wore a variation of Dolce and Gabbana's frock to an awards show recently, while Christina Aguilera flaunted her infamous curves in a metallic gown by Versace. In Us Weekly this week, Ali Larter is recognized for her "chic and sexy metallic mini" by Versace of which "The Heroes star accented her red carpet look with drop earrings and black peep toe pumps". Once they hit the red carpet everyone wants it.

The question remains, do styles lose their hipness as they are appropriated from the runway to the red carpet for celebrities or does it make styles more hip? From Us Weekly to People Magazine, pictures of celebrities advertising certain designers flood the pages of the magazines. Sales of styles increase as celebrities are seen wearing certain items. No matter wear you look, celebrities are advertising the hip styles of designer clothing.

Take for example: UGG boots. One of the latest fads, which was approproated from an essential use as a boot for outwear in Australia to a fashionable boot to accesorize your outfit with as it was brought to Hollywood by certain celebrities. Soon, UGG boots dominated college campuses and their popularity soared.

This seems to be the phenomenon with every style and fashion today. Once celebrities wear a certain style or item, it increases in popularity and the general public's desire to be just like the celebrities goes into effect. Skinny jeans, ballet flats, leggings, minis, peep toe shoes, mid-drift jackets, bomber jackets, aviator sunglasses, huge sunglasses...the list goes on and on. Once it hits Hollywood, everyone wants it. But, is it still cool once everyone is wearing it?

Works Cited

Brown Bag Clothing. "History of Versace". (2005) 15 April 2007 <http://www.bbclothing.co.uk/designers/versacedesignerclothing.html>

Dior. "DIOR Official Website" (2007). 20 April 2007 <http://fashion.dior.com/dior.html)>

Fragrance X. "History and Background of Dolce and Gabbana" (2007) 12 April 2007 <http://www.fragrancex.com/products/_bid_Dolce---am---Gabbana-am-cid_perfume-am-lid_D__brand_history.html>

Leland, John. Hip:The History. New York: 2004

Video 1. “Dolce and Gabbana: Women Fashion Show SS2007 Runway (Part 1)” <http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q49xhkcrpPU>

Video 2. “Versace: Fashion Show SS07 Women (Part 1)” <http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xLlENifnX_M>

Video 3. “Dior: Fashion Show FW (06-07) Part 1” <http://youtube.com/watch?v=hs-PNRozfrM>

Why All the Buzz about the Rack?: The Controversy of "Knockoffs"


Designer fashion seem to be emulated, copied and sold for "knock offs". But, does this imitation force the styles to lose their hipness as they shed their designer label name? Fake designer bags and matching cleebrity outfits for less flood the pages of magazines.

When questioned about this, a Syracuse University student replied, "I think you can get away with being hip if they don't know the difference, but in reality you're a fake hip person". Another student responded, "Yeah, thats just like if you have a fake Louie Vuitton bag, that's not hip". A third student agreed, "Absolutely not. The original item is what makes it hip, its a one of a kind...just like with anything else, when you see it copied, it's not as hip".

Depending on your standpoint on the issue and your idea of hip, your opinion may vary. However, since the deliverance of the "knock off" scene, many fashion experts have approached this issue.

John Davidson says "But there’s much more to the appeal of fast-fashion than the opportunity to bag a bargain. There’s kudos in finding a great fashion look at a modest price and without the obvious pointer of a flashy designer label". In his article "Chill Thrills", he approaches the idea of how recent fashions have made room for vintage clothing and how it is just as stylish today as fashion from runways in Paris.

Gregory Lions argues, "So what is a woman of modest means to do? Enter the knock-off. The fashion industry has created a need that the replica industry fulfills, designer clothing and accessories within the reach of the middle class budget". He discusses the "knock off" scene on Canal Street in New York City and how these cheap replication are the middle-class ticket to designer items without the price.

Heather Havrilesky questions this topic as she says, "Is this simply the thrill of decadent living that accompanies any bubble economy? Is it Wall Street money that has everyone singing the praises of their high-maintenance lifestyles? Is it the popularity of drooly wealth-watching magazines like InStyle that have us running out the door in search of the perfect tube top, knit skirt or pashmina wrap? " Havrilesky discusses the sudden fast accessibility of designer fashion and the prevalence of "knock offs" in our society.


As fashion is always changing, so is the definition of hip. People have their own ideas on hip and what trends can be labeled as hip. So, you do the math. What do you think is hip? Are designer fashions hip because they are inaccesible or as Havrilesky points out, is that notion dying down? Do celebrities make styles more hip because of their popularity and attention or vice versa? Are "knock offs" just as hip as the originals? In this blog, you will find all of the essentials and knowledge that you could need to make this decision for yourself. So, go ahead, be a hip scout and see what you think.



Work Cited

“Chic Thrills” Ed. John Davidson. 2005 21 April 2007 <(http://living.scotsman.com/index.cfm?id=160522005)>.

“Designer Envy: Knock It Off” Ed. Gregory Lions. 2006 21 April 2007<http://www.streetdirectory.com/travel_guide/10905/modelling/designer_envy_ knock_it_off.html>

“Great Taste, Less Thrilling”. Ed. Heather Havrilesky 2004 23 April 2007 <http://archive.salon.com/people/feature/1999/10/07/taste/index.html>.