As with any innovation, fashion is a reflection of the ground breaking creative minds of the time period. Those who are credited with creating fashion styles and new trends are denoted fashion designers. This page is dedicated to the history of fashion for the new millennium, adding to the previous histories and what the designers of our time are creating. It will focus on three prominent fashion designers, Gianni Versace, Dolce and Gabanna and Christian Dior.
What is hip anyway? As hip is defined by John Leland, author of "Hip the History", he states, "Hip is an ethos of individualism, but tends to grow in cliques. It has an epidemiology. In its larval, pre-hip stage, it is a creed without followers, out of rhythm with whatever is hip at the time…In relative isolation, a small group of individuals, forsaking the general trends around them, give each other permission to do something new. They develop their own slang as part of their group identity and encourage each other’s idiosyncrasies as badges of membership. As the inventions become more flamboyant or cohere as a style, a second, slightly broader circle begins to adopt some of the gestures- and in turn to transmit it to a circle slightly broader than itself (69). " Leland describes hip as individualistic, original, unique, and breaking the boundaries in a certain sphere. As hip emerges it is without followers, paving the way for trends to come. So, according to Lelands definition, in order to be hip in fashion it is all about originality. Once the circle of followers grows larger, it loses its hipness.
Versace
In 1978, Gianni Versace with the help of his brother launched the Gianni Versace collection and later that year it debuted. Versace’s bold, distinctive styles pushed the boundaries of the fashion industry as he made a name for himself. He always used very distinctive cuts, vibrant colors with unconventional materials, culminating high art with the contemporary culture. The 2006/2007 Spring Fashion Show featured many white, clean cut styles, brown, navy and white, 60’s inspired patterns, and metallic pieces. The Versace look continued its clean yet sexy looks in photographs used for advertisements.
Most of the styles exemplified the ones seen on the runway, however depicted a very independent woman wearing the style in a business manner. Of the dressier styles, vibrant and metallic colors were used to make the dresses stand out.
Dior
What are you wearing tonight?: This is the number one question that all reporters on the red carpet ask upon a celebrity's arrival. Nothing is more important than the label on a celebrity's back. But, why?
Dolce and Gabanna, Versace and Dior all have celebrity pages on their websites to show their appreciation and pride for the high-status names wearing their clothes.
The Runway: Often Imitated But, Never Replicated
Dolce and Gabbana
Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana collaborated in 1985 and soon made a name for themselves, being credited as making “stars look like stars”. Originally inspired by eclectic thrift shop Bohemia, Dolce & Gabbana's vibrant, animal prints have been described as "haute hippydom" taking inspiration in particular from Italy's prestigious film history. Dolce and Gabbana claim to be more concerned about creating the best, most flattering clothes than sparking trends. However, with their innovative way, Dolce and Gabbana has done nothing but spark trends. Their trademarks include “underwear-as-outerwear, such as bra straps and corsets, gangster boss pinstripe suits, extravagantly printed and embroidered coats, and black. Meanwhile their fetish-meets-femininity collections are always backed by powerful ad campaigns, like the black-and-white La Sicilia, featuring model Marpessa photographed by Ferdinando Scianna in 1987. But fundamentally they are known for making women look, "quite simply, devastatingly sexy”. Their styles are cutting edge and sexy, setting the stage for the fashions to follow.
The Spring 2007 Fashion Show featured their most recent collection, which consisted of many animal prints, specifically cheetah, clear plastic dresses and tuxedo looks. The styles are very sexy and daring, pushing the limits of fashion today.
The Spring 2007 Fashion Show featured their most recent collection, which consisted of many animal prints, specifically cheetah, clear plastic dresses and tuxedo looks. The styles are very sexy and daring, pushing the limits of fashion today.
Versace
In 1978, Gianni Versace with the help of his brother launched the Gianni Versace collection and later that year it debuted. Versace’s bold, distinctive styles pushed the boundaries of the fashion industry as he made a name for himself. He always used very distinctive cuts, vibrant colors with unconventional materials, culminating high art with the contemporary culture. The 2006/2007 Spring Fashion Show featured many white, clean cut styles, brown, navy and white, 60’s inspired patterns, and metallic pieces. The Versace look continued its clean yet sexy looks in photographs used for advertisements.
Most of the styles exemplified the ones seen on the runway, however depicted a very independent woman wearing the style in a business manner. Of the dressier styles, vibrant and metallic colors were used to make the dresses stand out.
Dior
Founded in 1947 with his very first collection, Christian Dior established "New Look." This collection featured rounded shoulders, a cinched waist, and very full skirt, with the objective of ultra-femininity and opulence in women's fashion. After years of military and civilian uniforms, sartorial restrictions and shortages, Dior offered not merely a new look but a new outlook, for which his rebellion and expertise became widely known. Since then Dior’s collection has offered clothing that caters to women’s bodies and is a perfect representation of femininity. Similar to the Versace line, the Dior Ready-to Wear Spring line, features metallics, however the styles are very different. Dior’s styles provide a funky, flirty fashion with bright colors, such as fuchsia, purple and green.
Along with the spring accent, white is used in many of the pieces, but the styles are targeted towards a younger crowd than Versace’s it seems. Dior also has six collections, Lady Dior, Dior Jeanne, Dior Cannage, Dior Gaucho, My Dior, and Crystal Watch, which allows much variation within the designer.
Along with the spring accent, white is used in many of the pieces, but the styles are targeted towards a younger crowd than Versace’s it seems. Dior also has six collections, Lady Dior, Dior Jeanne, Dior Cannage, Dior Gaucho, My Dior, and Crystal Watch, which allows much variation within the designer.
After viewing the styles of three prominent designers which are paving the way for fashion today, it is easy to see how different each designer is and how they are influencing our decade. It is important to realize the differences of these styles compared to the previous periods and see how styles are constantly changing and advancing as technology increases and people are forced to continuously break boundaries. These Spring/Summer 2007 Runway fashion styles will be the styles that influence our summer wear this summer and it is my job as a hip scout to follow their progression to the red carpet and finally, to the mainstream audience.
The Red Carpet: The First Step to Mainstream Access
What are you wearing tonight?: This is the number one question that all reporters on the red carpet ask upon a celebrity's arrival. Nothing is more important than the label on a celebrity's back. But, why?
Dolce and Gabanna, Versace and Dior all have one thing in common. Their clothing lines are hip on the runway because of their orginality, daring styles and inaccessibility in every way. Designer fashions are hip because they are unattainable. Their styles are too outrageous for daily wear, yet they are admired and desired. Their costs are too high for the average person to afford, forcing the old saying of "you always want what you can't have" to become very true in this case. People desire designer clothes because of the notion of wealth attached to the label.
Designers promote their styles to the general public using their celebrity ties. They shower celebrities with free clothing in the hopes that they will advertise their styles to the public and continue the cycle of fashion. Once fans and mainstream audiences see a famous celebrity wearing the new dress by Versace or the sleek Dior clutch, the hipness factor of designer labels is intensified and the desire levels are increased. People want what the celebrities have, this is how the media influences what the consumerism of the public.
Dolce and Gabanna, Versace and Dior all have celebrity pages on their websites to show their appreciation and pride for the high-status names wearing their clothes.
Once cheetah print hit the Dolce and Gabbana runway it became the new fad again. Magazines everywhere showed just about everything you could possibly imagine available in cheetah. The same thing happened with metallics and feminine, crisp white styles, which dominated the runways of Versace and Dior. These styles have paved the way for the styles that are popular.
But, it isn't until celebrities wear these styles that they become popular. Their popularity brings attention to the styles. Jessica Alba wore a variation of Dolce and Gabbana's frock to an awards show recently, while Christina Aguilera flaunted her infamous curves in a metallic gown by Versace. In Us Weekly this week, Ali Larter is recognized for her "chic and sexy metallic mini" by Versace of which "The Heroes star accented her red carpet look with drop earrings and black peep toe pumps". Once they hit the red carpet everyone wants it.
The question remains, do styles lose their hipness as they are appropriated from the runway to the red carpet for celebrities or does it make styles more hip? From Us Weekly to People Magazine, pictures of celebrities advertising certain designers flood the pages of the magazines. Sales of styles increase as celebrities are seen wearing certain items. No matter wear you look, celebrities are advertising the hip styles of designer clothing.
Take for example: UGG boots. One of the latest fads, which was approproated from an essential use as a boot for outwear in Australia to a fashionable boot to accesorize your outfit with as it was brought to Hollywood by certain celebrities. Soon, UGG boots dominated college campuses and their popularity soared.
This seems to be the phenomenon with every style and fashion today. Once celebrities wear a certain style or item, it increases in popularity and the general public's desire to be just like the celebrities goes into effect. Skinny jeans, ballet flats, leggings, minis, peep toe shoes, mid-drift jackets, bomber jackets, aviator sunglasses, huge sunglasses...the list goes on and on. Once it hits Hollywood, everyone wants it. But, is it still cool once everyone is wearing it?
Works Cited
Brown Bag Clothing. "History of Versace". (2005) 15 April 2007 <http://www.bbclothing.co.uk/designers/versacedesignerclothing.html>
Dior. "DIOR Official Website" (2007). 20 April 2007 <http://fashion.dior.com/dior.html)>
Fragrance X. "History and Background of Dolce and Gabbana" (2007) 12 April 2007 <http://www.fragrancex.com/products/_bid_Dolce---am---Gabbana-am-cid_perfume-am-lid_D__brand_history.html>
Fragrance X. "History and Background of Dolce and Gabbana" (2007) 12 April 2007 <http://www.fragrancex.com/products/_bid_Dolce---am---Gabbana-am-cid_perfume-am-lid_D__brand_history.html>
Leland, John. Hip:The History. New York: 2004
Video 1. “Dolce and Gabbana: Women Fashion Show SS2007 Runway (Part 1)” <http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q49xhkcrpPU>
Video 2. “Versace: Fashion Show SS07 Women (Part 1)” <http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xLlENifnX_M>
Video 3. “Dior: Fashion Show FW (06-07) Part 1” <http://youtube.com/watch?v=hs-PNRozfrM>